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Bouldering in Andalucia and Spain

 

Steep bouldering at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain

 

Lip traverse

 

Bouldering at Rosario in Spain

 

bouldering spain

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bouldering in Spain - Villanueva del Rosario and El Albarracin

Villanueva del Rosario bouldering

 

The Rock Climbing Company offer guided trips to a couple of really good bouldering areas in Spain - Villanueva del Rosario and El Albarracin.

We can guide you to the best problems, offer advice on improving performance and provide crash mats. We will also on request arrange all the transport and accommodation.

Our base in Villanueva del Rosario is very close to some excellent bouldering venues and Rosario itself has over 600 marked problems for all abilities. These limestone boulder fields are situated in the Jobo and Camarolo hills behind the village, where a dramatic landscape hides a massive boulder field running down from the huge El Diamente buttress.

The area contains everything from long, power stamina traverses to steep 45 degree walls and fingery highballs. This venue is also a great place to improve your footwork as the locals have not forgotten to include a multitude of delicate slabs in the circuits.

This area is still largely unknown outside of the Granada and Malaga region because the locals, rightly, want to avoid the area being spoilt. There are no published topos to the boulders. The area is fairly high and a great place to retreat to on hot days, but this also means that it is one of the first areas to get hit by bad weather.

If it rains then El Torcalito in the hills above Malaga is a safe bet - a small, but perfectly formed area that is protected by limestone roofs. It is also a great social venue and a good way to meet local climbers - Bernabes Ferdandez of Chilam Bilam (9b+) fame got strong here.

We can also arrange trips to the sandstone boulders of El Albarracin, which is widely recognised as a brilliant venue that rivals Fontainbleu in quality. The best site for info about El Albarracin is www.boulderalbarracin.com. The site is full of information about the area, the accommodation and the boulders.

There is a seasonal climbing ban in force on some of the areas and the site has the latest info - the english version is at the bottom of the page.

Bouldering is one of the fastest and most popular ways into climbing. The freedom of unhindered movement allows climbers to push their technical ability and gain confidence on difficult ground which can then be transferred to routes. Bouldering outside, whilst still physical, is generally more subtle than that experienced indoors because there are more options for holds and body position.

If you have tried bouldering at the climbing wall and would like to gain experience bouldering outdoors then this is the course for you. Our courses will normally include transport to the venues and guiding through them, provision of quality crash pads and spotting as well as coaching.

 

 

 

Bouldering in Central and Northern Spain

 

This topic is kindly copied from the Rock + Run review and all images and maps courtesy of the "EBLOC - Bouldering in Spain" guide.

Bouldering areas in Spain
(1.) Targasonne: Okay so Targasonne is technically in France, but with the Spanish border clearly in view from many of the blocks it makes sense to pay homage and acknowledge this great granite area on the Pyrenean border. Along with La Pedriza, the Targassone section offers only a useful introduction to the crag and local area, with a small selection of the best problems/circuits from one of the main sectors, “Sector Taz”. If you intend to plan a trip focusing primarily on Targassone then it is well worth picking up a copy of Fred Bertins definitive guide “Le Chaos Targassone”.

inominatta_7b_savassona(2.) Savassona: A little know sandstone area just over 70km north of Barcelona. With blocks in both woodland and meadow locations there is a reminiscent air of Fontainebleau about this venue, but obviously on a much smaller scale. The rock is also forged from a larger grained base material. Despite the relatively low altitude the spring, autumn and winter months in Savassona can get pretty cold, making for great conditions.

(3.) Sant Joan de Vilatorrada: Despite its locality to a fairly built up area, the sandstone and conglomerate boulders of Sant Joan de Vilatorrada offer a great mix of slopey pockets and pebble pinching action on the craglets and boulders around Manresa, a small town 65km NW of Barcelona. At an altitude of 350m this is, again, an area to avoid in the summer months.

(4.) Belianes/Malda: A small sandstone area situated 135km west of Barcelona. All the sectors are located in close proximity and the lines generally encounter a mix of arêtes or bulging walls, in an attractive rural setting. This venue is only 35km (45 minutes drive) from the more extensive area of El Cogul and offers an ideal change of scene when on a trip to Cogul.

(5.) Cervià: Another neat, and beautifully rural, sandstone venue (143km west of Barcelona) centred around an old chapel. As with Belianes this crag is also situated in very close proximity to the better known El Cogul, and again makes a good distraction from its better known cousin. The guide records only 97 problems at this venue, but goes on to point out the wealth of rock in the vicinity, so this may be an area to look out for in the future.

(6.) El Cogul: Along with Albarracin El Cogul (165km west of Barcelona) is one of the largest bouldering areas in north east Spain. Over its twelve currently developed sectors it hosts over 450 boulder problems on the finest quality sandstone. With an altitude of only 350m and a semi-desert location, not to mention the nature of the slopey top-outs and openhanded pockets, the winter months are ‘the’ time to visit El Cogul. Along with the plethora of great problems, the undulating rural setting offers a relaxed atmosphere and even a vista of prehistoric cave paintings to ogle on your rest days.

(7.) Albarracín: Currently one of “the” in-vogue European bouldering destinations, Albarracin will be the cardinal reason that many climbers purchase EBLOC. The site covers a large area and incorporates over 1000 boulder problems (around 750 of which are listed in this guide), on sumptuous sandstone blocks, with many lines involving steep athletic roof climbing. Located a little over halfway between Barcelona and Madrid, in the locality of the provincial town of Teruel, Albarracin is best reached from either Valencia (160km) or Madrid (280km). When considering a trip here it’s worth bearing in mind that a number of sectors are closed, due to nesting restrictions, from 10th January to the 15th August. However, as the area is situated at 1300m, autumn and early winter are the best times to visit.


(8.) La Pedriza: Another extensive (granite) area situated in a national park at an altitude of around 1000m, but this time in the locality of Madrid (60km). Well known for its granite domes and fine routes, La Pedriza offers a wealth of bouldering. Unfortunately the guide only offers a rough layout of the better known areas and approach and access information. There are a few rough online topos available here.

megapuerta_8a_elescorial(9.) El Esorial: Another area offering only a selection of the full enchilada of problems, however there is a solid circuit of over 100 problems described, on rough mountain granite, with many of the problems being in the Font7a to 8b spread! Situated at around 1000m and 55 km from Madrid this is another area easily reached from a major airport.

(10.) Zarzalejo: A small but worthwhile granite area situated only a few kilometres from El Escorial, making it and ideal destination for a change of scene when based around El Escorial, or even La Pedriza. Another area with reams of potential, and one that may expand with time – the freestanding, glacially worn, orb-like blocks are worth a visit in their own right!

(11.) Burguillo: An interesting looking granite area occupying the shoreline of the Embalse de Burguillo reservoir, in the mountains 90km due west of Madrid. Two sectors are included in the guide – offering almost 150 problems – and a further couple of areas are undocumented. The blocks are beautifully water worn and thoroughly mesmerizing to behold, as well as offering some great looking sport.


(12.) Navalosa: After Albarracin, Navalosa is the most extensive area described in the book. Positioned high (1400m) in the mountains 170km west of Madrid, and almost halfway between the Spanish capital and the Portuguese border, is a remote village surrounded by crystalline gold! Navalosa may seem to belong to a long forgotten age but it’s not for the amenities that one visits this part of the world. The area is literally blanketed in smooth granite blocks and formations, and any rock starved climber visiting the area for the first time may think they’ve died and gone to heaven. The granite is unusually featureless, and save for the multitude of strange pebbles or “patatas” embedded in the rock, it would be almost insurmountable!

Purchase "EBLOC - Bouldering in Spain" here.

GEBRO Verlag's Website.

 

 

Equipment provided by the Rock Climbing Company:. We will provide all technical equipment for bouldering and climbing including pads. We have both a DMM Highballs, a Franklin Dropzone and a Metolius pad for use.

What you need to provide: You will need to provide suitable warm clothing for the time of year - the boulders lie at 1200m so they can feel chilly even in Summer - but the friction is good.

What is not included. Prices do not include, transport, accommodation, meals or personal insurance. Accommodation is available in Villanueva del Rosario in a newly renovated house that that a variety of accommodation options.

Ratios and course sizes. The Bouldering course can be run at any ratio up to 4 to 1.

Prices. A list of all prices are found below: All prices include VAT

Type of Course
Length
Ratio
Cost per person
BoulderingCourse
1 Day Course
1:1
150 Euros
1:2
85 Euros
1:3
70 Euros
2 Day Course
1:1
300 Euros
1:2
160 Euros
1:3
130 Euros

 

Dates, venues and duration of all of the climbing courses are by arrangement and totally customisable. Please do not hesitate to get in touch to discuss your requirements.

The full terms and conditions are on the booking page

Please do not hesitate to contact us for more information

 

 

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