Rock Climbing CompanyAssociation of Mountaineering Instructors

Rock Climbing Areas in Malaga & Marbella, Granada Andalucia

 

 

 

Bouldering at Rosario

 

El Corral - Villanueva del Rosario

 

El Torcalito

 

 

 

 

 

Main Climbing areas in Malaga

- Villanueva del Rosario- El Chorro =Marbella-San Anton- Archidona - El Torcal- Villanueva del Cauche-

 

The main climbing areas are listed below:

Climbing at La Ventana, Villanueva del Rosario

Villanueva del Rosario. The cave of Chilam Balam is stunning, but the hills behind the town hide a labyrinth that is full of limestone crags for climbers of all abilities.

 

The most impressive area surrounds the Llano del Hondonero, a green meadow in the hills behind the town. The crags surrounding the meadow include the massive buttress of El Corral, the grey walls and slabs of Tajo de Madera and the varied and extensive climbing on La Ventana.

 

There are also several other great areas behind Villanueva del Rosario together with some quite extensive limestone bouldering. The local activists have been careful to bolt crags of all orientations so that climbing is possible all year round.

 

There are all types of routes at all grades including long mountain scrambles on El Chamizo, perfect grey limestone slabs and walls that are ideal venues for learning the core climbing skills and steeper orange walls for more advanced climbers.

 

There is no published information, but we have compiled a climbing guide with a full series of topos to the area that covers the Chilam Balam cave, Tajo de Corral, Tajo de Madera, La Ventana, Los Pinos, El Triangulo and El Chaos.

 

The information has been compiled with the help of the local activists who wish to keep the area quiet and so access to the information is restricted to local climberss only.

Chilam Balam Topo

Villanueva del Rosario Climbing Topo and Guide

The closest town to us is Villanueva del Trabuco and crags behind the town have been developed and there are two good areas with several routes in the 5's, 6's and 7's.

Villanueva del Cauche: a great crag with lots of good bolted 6's and 7's and some good 8 sas well as a few easier and harder routes. This crag often gets great weather when El Chorro is under clag. Basic info in David Munilla's Andalucia guide and the latest Rockfax El Chorro guide

 

The upper cave is currently being developed as a dry tooling/wet weather venue with a couple of brand new trad cracks being freed inside the cave itself and exiting via a blowhole! There are some fantastic crags being developed in this valley. 10 minutes drive.

 

Archidona: an area with two separate sections. Low down there is a steep, rain-proof cave with 7's and 8's and above this there are some good long walls that have been recently developed. These walls contain a lot of friendly 5's and 6's plus a few technical horrors in the middle. The area is covered by both the Munilla and the newRockfax guides. 20 minutes drive.

 

Loja: this area has sadl been bird banned except for the Train Station sector which also hosts a recent Via Ferrata. The train station crags are the best winter option as they get any sun going. 35 minutes drive.

St Anton de Pinares (Malaga): a good little set of crags overlooking the sea that are perfect when the weather inland is looking dodgy or cold. Their position also makes them great for airport days. There are two crags; one facing SE with about 50 short routes on perfect grey limestone and the larger WNW crag with about 30 routes from 5b to 7c. There are online topos on a separate page - contact us if you need more details.

El Torcal: limestone that thinks its gritstone. Limestone towers in a lovely area. Info in Munillas guide and El Chorro Rockfax guide. 25 minutes drive.

Desplomilandia. an outlying area of El Chorro - most of the routes are in the shade and are pretty good. The new Rockfax guide has covered this very well -

 

Turon: a great crag close to the village of Ardales . in the new El Chorro Rockfax guide.

 

El Chorro: a world class area that is a bit too popular and a bit too polished in places, but is still very, very good.

 

Valle de Abdalajis: A large expanse rock above this old village. Largely 4s-6s on slabby rock. Online guide here and it has also been covered in the new Rockfax guide pretty well . There are some amazing steep cliffs being developed above this area

Montefrio left hand sideThere are lots more crags in Granada within easy driving distance; Cahorros is a surreal valley on the outskirts of Granada with loads of climbing at all levels and a hard grading system. Also close to Granada are Cogollos (Steep 7s) and Alfacar (5s and 6s)

There are lots of other activities to do on rest days - mountain biking, canyoning and hiking - or the beaches on the coast.

 

 

Map of Climbing Areas in Andalucia

 


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Climbing in Villanueva del Rosario

 

Chilam Balam CaveThere is no published guide to climbing around Villanueva del Rosario, but with the kind help of the local climbers we have tried to document the area a few years ago. many more roues have been added so the best way to know about bthem is to go and ask he locals.

There is a general consensus that this information should not be made freely available in order to maintain the tranquility of the area - thus there is no general access to this information - sorry.

The link below will allow those with the correct access information to download the full climbing guide.

The Climbing Area of Villanueva del Rosario - A Climbers Guide

In addition the following pages are available separately

Villanueva del Rosario Climbing Guide (no topos)

Climbing Guide to Chilam Balam Cave

 

 

El Torcalito - Climbing in Malaga

The map below outlines the position of the El Torcalito crags - this is a small, but neat little bouldering area on the outskirts of the city. It is steep and thuggy - reminiscent of the steep bit of Rubicon in the Peak District. There is a fair bit of sika around which has been to both build and reinforce holds.

El Torcalito offers rain proof bouldering and about 4 short steep routes.

The parking in at a small layby on the left hand side of the dirt access road - there is space for 6 or so cars here. The crag is found by continuing on foot up the dirt road for another another 20 m until an unmarked footpath heads off slightly to the right into the woods. Follow this track for a couple of hundred metres until you are at a small makeshift gate marked 'No Entry'. Go through this and the crag is straight ahead and on your left.

It is a popular venue for the Malaga climbers - please respect them if you go there; say hello (Hola! pronounced Ola) and don't just ignore them. They are friendly and very helpful and so reciprocate - it is their area you are visiting.

A complete set of topos for all the climbing in Malaga is also available


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Villanueva de Cauche - New Crag

Cauche - New Crag

 

Villanueva de Cauche has also a climbing sector known as El Colmillo. The long corner line running up the entire cliff is a 5 pitch trad route that goes at a UK HVS / E1 with bolted belays, whilst the red wall to it's right is an amazing climbers playground.

At the moment, there are about 20 routes here varying from 6a to 7c+ which are brilliant; 20 to 30m of intricate climbing on great rock up a slightly overhanging wall.

Once you get there the locals will help you the grades and recommendaions.

 

 

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